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From Varanasi to Vogue: The Timeless Tale of Banarasi Sarees

From Varanasi to Vogue: The Timeless Tale of Banarasi Sarees

Banarasi sarees are a true embodiment of India's rich cultural heritage and artisanal mastery. Known for their intricate designs and luxurious appeal, these sarees have long been revered as a symbol of elegance and status. From being favoured by royalty to becoming a staple in bridal trousseaus, Banarasi sarees are not only beautiful garments but also carry a legacy that spans centuries.

The History of Banarasi Sarees
The history of Banarasi sarees dates back to the Vedic period, when "Hiranya Vastra" or “Pitambar Vastra" (literally translated as "golden cloth") was worn by the deities. The art of weaving silk in Banaras, now called Varanasi, reached its zenith during the Mughal era, as Persian motifs were introduced into the traditional Indian designs, resulting in the iconic brocade work that Banarasi sarees are known for today. Sage Patanjali even referenced "Kasi Ka Vastra" or cloth from Kashi in the 2nd century BC, highlighting the ancient and revered status of Banarasi textiles.
Over time, the city of Banaras became a major hub for silk weaving, producing some of the finest sarees that are still cherished today. The art has been passed down through generations of weavers, each one adding their own unique touch to the craft while preserving its traditional essence.

The Weaving Style and Craftsmanship
Banarasi sarees are renowned for their meticulous craftsmanship and the labour-intensive process that goes into creating each piece. The hallmark of a genuine Banarasi saree lies in its intricate brocade work, which is often woven with gold and silver threads. Weavers use a traditional technique called "Kadhua," where each motif is woven separately, making the saree a masterpiece of detailed artistry.
The weaving process can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the complexity of the design. The sarees are typically made from fine mulberry silk, with zari work (gold or silver threads) being an essential component of the design. The combination of silk and zari gives the Banarasi saree its signature lustrous appearance.
Explore Madhurya’s range of Banarasi sarees

Motifs and Symbols in Banarasi Sarees
Banarasi sarees are known for their intricate motifs, which often draw inspiration from Mughal designs. Floral patterns, trellises, and paisleys are commonly seen, but the weavers also incorporate traditional Indian elements such as elephants, birds, and fruits into their designs. 
The motifs not only add to the beauty of the saree but also hold symbolic significance. For instance, floral patterns represent fertility and prosperity, while peacocks are a symbol of beauty and grace. The richness of these motifs, combined with the luxurious texture of silk, makes the Banarasi saree a work of art that can be passed down as an heirloom.

Contemporary Styles in Banarasi Sarees
While the traditional Banarasi saree remains a favourite among brides and for festive occasions, contemporary versions have emerged to cater to modern tastes. Designers have experimented with colours, patterns, and lighter fabrics, making Banarasi sarees more versatile for today’s fashion-conscious women.

Styled by celebrity stylist Ami Patel, Jagriti looked radiant in Madhurya’s yellow and baby pink Banarasi lehenga, as seen on the show The Great Indian Bride on Disney+ Hotstar!
New-age Banarasi sarees come in pastel hues, geometric patterns, and even minimalist designs, appealing to those who prefer understated elegance. Variants like striped Banarasi sarees, multi-hued pieces, and sarees with depictions of animals such as peacocks or parrots offer a fresh take on the traditional garment. 

Kangana Ranaut’s indigo blue handloom Banarasi saree with dachshund motifs is one of our all-time favourites!

The Varieties of Banarasi Sarees
Banarasi sarees are categorised based on the weaving technique, design patterns, and materials used. Some of the most popular varieties include:

  • Banarasi Brocade Saree: Featuring intricate zari work and often considered the most luxurious of all Banarasi sarees.

  • Tanchoi Saree: Known for its vibrant colours and elaborate patterns, these sarees typically have no zari work.

  • Jangla Saree: Distinguished by its heavy floral patterns and lush zari detailing, perfect for weddings and festive occasions.

  • Banarasi Organza Saree: Made from light, transparent fabric with fine brocade work, these sarees offer a more contemporary look.

  • Butidar Saree: Characterised by its rich, gold and silver bootis (small motifs), making it a staple for bridal wear.


  • The Experience of Banaras

    The city of Varanasi, often referred to as Banaras, is not just the birthplace of the Banarasi saree but also a cultural and spiritual hub. Known for its ancient temples, ghats, and classical music traditions, Banaras embodies grandeur in every sense. This grandeur is reflected in its signature silk sarees, which have caught the attention of admirers across the globe.
    The weaving tradition of Banaras is as eternal as the city itself, standing as a testament to the rich history and spiritual significance of the region. It is no wonder that Banarasi sarees are considered a must-have for weddings, symbolising the permanence and beauty of a lifelong bond.

     

    Styled by celebrity stylist Ami Patel, Vedhika looked royal in Madhurya’s purple and pink Banarasi Nauvari saree, as seen on the show The Great Indian Bride on Disney+ Hotstar!

    Madhurya's Commitment to Preserving Banarasi Heritage
    At Madhurya, the preservation of India’s cultural and artistic legacy is a top priority. Founded by Bhanumathi Narasimhan, sister of Gurudev Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, Madhurya is dedicated to reviving traditional arts and crafts, including the weaving of Banarasi sarees. Madhurya works directly with weaver communities in Varanasi, ensuring that the age-old techniques of handloom weaving are passed onto future generations.
    One way Madhurya guarantees authenticity is by promoting Banarasi sarees with the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, ensuring that each saree comes from the original weaving hubs in Varanasi. This not only preserves the heritage but also supports the livelihoods of skilled artisans who rely on these crafts.
    Moreover, a portion of Madhurya’s proceeds goes towards the education of underprivileged children through the Gift-A-Smile initiative by The Art of Living Foundation. By purchasing an authentic Banarasi saree from Madhurya, customers not only acquire a piece of history but also contribute to a noble cause.

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